Another Newbie...With Question
Posted: Wed May 30, 2018 11:15 amHi..old guy here with lifelong interest in things mechanical and a bunch of unfinished/untouched projects. Decided to start incorporating them into our lives or get rid of them. Clocks...started with 1970 Kuempel MK III that hadn't run in 10+ years. Some evenings on internet...runs. Next, '70s Seth Thomas mantel...more internet...runs. Then parents' '60s Kundo Anniversary...this one was tedious, especially beat, now runs. Storage rough family hand-me-down Sessions Regulator E...movement needs bushings big time...not skilled enough to tackle, but wanted to hear shop clock "tick-tock," so bought one in better shape.
Advertised as Sessions...arrived with no key, illegible label fragments, generic dial (and wrong Arabic numerals), and no movement trademark. One internet evening to identify as Gilbert "University" Model 3022. Case, dial pan/bezels, glass, pendulum, and movement original with minor issues. Did minimal case resto...on to movement. Some wear. Was cleaned at some point, click replaced (different brass color), probably spring replaced (minimal rust), likewise verge/crutch (long crutch bent at crazy angle) and suspension. Couldn't keep it running, and while doing more internet research, found Bob's courses. Lubed escapement per video (I thought escapement was a "gear," no lube). Now on wall running unfinished (needs dial and glass repaint).
Problem...runs slow with bob as high as will go. Can't find any documentation for suspension length, or point where crutch intercepts suspension. To me, these should be important measurements when replacing parts. Since crutch applies spring energy to pendulum, I would think its contact point on suspension rod could be critical. Am I missing something? As for not being able to adjust pendulum any more, replacement suspension spring/rod length is suspect. Knowing correct length could solve my problem, or shift blame to spring tension, or friction from gear/pivot/bushing wear. Can I safely shorten overall pendulum length by raising suspension spring in holder, or will I create another issue by shortening spring's functional length?
I apologize for long post and promise to keep future posts succinct...
John
P.S. If someone has pic of original movement with suspension attached, I can determine above lengths with Photoshop.
Advertised as Sessions...arrived with no key, illegible label fragments, generic dial (and wrong Arabic numerals), and no movement trademark. One internet evening to identify as Gilbert "University" Model 3022. Case, dial pan/bezels, glass, pendulum, and movement original with minor issues. Did minimal case resto...on to movement. Some wear. Was cleaned at some point, click replaced (different brass color), probably spring replaced (minimal rust), likewise verge/crutch (long crutch bent at crazy angle) and suspension. Couldn't keep it running, and while doing more internet research, found Bob's courses. Lubed escapement per video (I thought escapement was a "gear," no lube). Now on wall running unfinished (needs dial and glass repaint).
Problem...runs slow with bob as high as will go. Can't find any documentation for suspension length, or point where crutch intercepts suspension. To me, these should be important measurements when replacing parts. Since crutch applies spring energy to pendulum, I would think its contact point on suspension rod could be critical. Am I missing something? As for not being able to adjust pendulum any more, replacement suspension spring/rod length is suspect. Knowing correct length could solve my problem, or shift blame to spring tension, or friction from gear/pivot/bushing wear. Can I safely shorten overall pendulum length by raising suspension spring in holder, or will I create another issue by shortening spring's functional length?
I apologize for long post and promise to keep future posts succinct...
John
P.S. If someone has pic of original movement with suspension attached, I can determine above lengths with Photoshop.